Asoj 2083 BSअसोज २०८३· Nepal runs on its own calendar

Pokhara & the Annapurnas · hill town

Gorkha

गोरखा

Gorkha is a hill town at about 1,100 m, 24 km above the Prithvi Highway and roughly 140 km west of Kathmandu, where the Shah dynasty that unified Nepal began. Its hilltop palace, Gorkha Durbar, is the birthplace of Prithvi Narayan Shah, with Manaslu and Himalchuli on the skyline.

  • Stay 1 nights
  • Best Oct – Mar
  • पहाडPahad
Gorkha
Photo: Bibek Shrestha · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Gorkha

Altitude1,097 m12.4% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltPahadपहाड · The middle hills: terraces, towns, rhododendron
Each breath88%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils96.3 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu+2.0 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 1,097 m; real days vary with weather.

Most people know the word Gorkha from soldiers. The town itself is quieter than its name: a bazaar spread along a hillside above terraced valleys, with a royal palace on the ridge 300–400 m above it, reached by a long stone staircase, commonly said to have about 1,500 steps, or by road. From the palace walls the view runs north to Manaslu, Himalchuli and the Ganesh range, and south over the hills that the Gorkha kings set out to conquer.

This is where modern Nepal began. Drabya Shah took Gorkha in 1559; his descendant Prithvi Narayan Shah was born in the palace on 7 January 1723, became king in 1743, and spent the next 25 years absorbing the hill kingdoms and the Kathmandu Valley into a single state. The palace, the Kalika temple and the cave of the yogi Gorakhnath, who gave the town its name, remain places of pilgrimage.

Gorkha deserves a night. Climb to the durbar at dawn, visit the museum in the lower palace, walk the bazaar, and in the right season combine it with the Manakamana cable car on the highway below. It fits neatly into the drive between Kathmandu and Pokhara or Chitwan, and it is the gateway to the Manaslu region.

Why go

Gorkha Durbar

The fortified Newar-style palace on the ridge, birthplace of Prithvi Narayan Shah, with carved windows, thick walls and a Kalika temple. Climb the stone steps from the bazaar in about an hour.

Gorakhnath cave

A rock shelter beside the palace where the yogi Gorakhnath is said to have meditated, still tended by priests. A fair is held here every Baisakh Purnima.

Views of Manaslu

From the palace walls, Manaslu, Himalchuli, Baudha Himal and Ganesh Himal stand to the north on clear mornings, with terraced valleys below.

Tallo Durbar and the museum

The lower palace in the bazaar houses the Gorkha Museum, with exhibits on the Shah kings and the unification of Nepal, set in a courtyard building with a garden.

Manakamana by cable car

On the highway below, a 2.8 km cable car from Kurintar rises to the hilltop temple of Manakamana at about 1,300 m, one of Nepal's most visited wish-fulfilling shrines.

१The story of Gorkha

The small kingdom that made Nepal

In the 16th century Gorkha was one of the Chaubisi rajya, the twenty-four small kingdoms of the western hills, and among the smallest. Drabya Shah, a younger son of the ruling family of Lamjung, took it in 1559 and founded a dynasty. The palace on the ridge, attributed to King Ram Shah, was built in Newar style with thick walls and carved timbers.

Prithvi Narayan Shah was born here, in the part of the palace called Dhuni Pari, in 1723, and took the throne in 1743. He captured Nuwakot in 1744, cutting the Kathmandu Valley's trade routes, and finally took Kathmandu in 1768. His advice to his court, recorded as the Divya Upadesh, famously described Nepal as a yam between two boulders, China and British India. Kaski, Lamjung, Tanahun and the other hill states were absorbed in the decades that followed.

Once the capital moved to Kathmandu, Gorkha became a district town, though the palace and its temples kept their importance for the royal family and pilgrims. Its name travelled the world through the Gurkha soldiers recruited from these hills. In 1996 the town became Prithvinarayan Municipality; in 2009, after the end of the monarchy, it was renamed Gorkha. The April 2015 earthquake, centred in Gorkha district near Barpak, damaged the palace; restoration by the Department of Archaeology began in November 2017.

२The legend
As it is told · गोरखा

A popular story in Gorkha tells that the yogi Gorakhnath, guardian of the town, appeared to the young Prithvi Narayan Shah and asked for curd. The prince brought it; the yogi ate, then spat some back into his hands and told him to swallow it. Disgusted, the prince let it fall onto his feet. The yogi said that had he swallowed it, his words would have come true; instead, every land his feet touched would be his.

३The people

Who lives here

Gorkha district is home to Magar, Gurung, Brahmin, Chhetri, Newar, Dalit and, in the north, Ghale and Tibetan-speaking communities. The bazaar has long Newar trading families. Northern villages such as Barpak are known for sending men to the Gurkha regiments. Most families farm rice, millet, maize and oranges on terraces, and many depend on remittances from the Gulf, Malaysia and India.

४Words you will hear
Nepali
दरबार
Durbar

Royal palace or court

Nepali
गोरखाली
Gorkhali

Of Gorkha; once the name for the Nepali language and its people

Nepali
तरुल
Tarul

Yam; from the king's saying, Nepal is a yam between two boulders

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Dahi chiura

Beaten rice with thick buffalo-milk curd, sometimes with sugar or banana: the classic hill snack, and the curd of the Gorakhnath story. Sweet shops and tea houses in Gorkha bazaar serve it fresh in the morning. At Dashain, families add meat curry and sel roti to the plate.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Prithvi Narayan Shah was born on 7 January 1723 in the part of Gorkha palace known as Dhuni Pari; he became King of Gorkha in 1743 and died in 1775 at Devighat in Nuwakot.

Wikipedia: Prithvi Narayan Shah; Wikipedia: Gorkha Palace

Gorkha town was created as Prithvinarayan Municipality in 1996, named after the king, and renamed Gorkha in 2009 after the monarchy was abolished.

Wikipedia: Gorkha Municipality

A fair is held every year on Baisakh Purnima, the full moon of April–May, at the Gorakhnath cave beside the palace, where the yogi is said to have meditated.

Wikipedia: Gorkha Palace

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Gorkha

Road

From Kathmandu, drive the Prithvi Highway about 115 km to Abu Khaireni, then 24 km up a paved road to Gorkha bazaar, about 5 hours in total. From Pokhara it is about 3.5–4 hours. Local buses run from Kathmandu's Gongabu bus park and from Pokhara. The palace can be reached by road or on foot from the bazaar.

On foot

From Gorkha bazaar, a stone staircase of around 1,500 steps climbs through the old town to the palace in 45–60 minutes. Paths also continue along the ridge to villages beyond.

Where to stay

Gorkha has a handful of mid-range hotels and guesthouses in and around the bazaar, some with mountain-view rooftops, and simple lodges near the bus park. Facilities are modest compared with Pokhara; ask for a quiet room away from the main road. Many visitors stop for a few hours on the way to Pokhara, where Temple Tree Resort and Fish Tail Lodge are about four hours away, or to Bandipur, where The Old Inn is about two hours away.

Local tips

  • Climb to the palace early in the morning for clear mountain views and fewer visitors.
  • Leather items and photography may be restricted near the Kalika temple; follow the signs and the priests' instructions.
  • Dress modestly and remove shoes at shrines; the palace remains a religious site.
  • Carry water for the climb; there are a few shops on the steps but fewer near the top.
  • Around Dashain the palace and Kalika temple are crowded with pilgrims; book hotels early.

On the map

Gorkha and what is near it

Map of Gorkha, Bandipur, Pokhara, Begnas LakeIndiaChinaNepalGandakiGorkha1GorkhaBandipur2BandipurPokhara3PokharaBegnas Lake4Begnas Lake50 kmN
  1. 1Gorkha
  2. 2Bandipur
  3. 3Pokhara
  4. 4Begnas Lake
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Gorkha: what travellers ask

How far is Gorkha from Kathmandu?

Gorkha bazaar is about 140 km west of Kathmandu: drive the Prithvi Highway to Abu Khaireni, about 115 km, then 24 km up a paved road. It takes about 5 hours by private car, more with traffic near Mugling. Local buses run from Kathmandu's Gongabu bus park in 5–6 hours.

Why is Gorkha important in Nepal's history?

Gorkha was the small hill kingdom from which the Shah dynasty unified Nepal. Prithvi Narayan Shah, born in Gorkha palace in 1723, conquered the Kathmandu Valley in 1768 and began the expansion that created the modern state. The name also passed to the Gurkha soldiers recruited from these hills.

Is Gorkha worth visiting?

Yes, if you are interested in Nepal's history or want a quieter stop between Kathmandu and Pokhara. The palace on the ridge, its temples and mountain views are impressive, and the town sees few foreign visitors. One night is enough. Combine it with Bandipur or the Manakamana cable car on the same journey.

Are Gurkha soldiers from Gorkha?

The name Gurkha comes from Gorkha, the kingdom that unified Nepal, but Gurkha soldiers come from across Nepal's hills, especially Gurung, Magar, Rai and Limbu communities. Villages in Gorkha district, such as Barpak, have sent many men to the regiments. British and Indian Gurkha recruitment continues today.

How many steps are there to Gorkha Durbar?

The stone staircase from Gorkha bazaar to the palace is commonly said to have about 1,500 steps, climbing around 300–400 m. It takes 45–60 minutes up. A road also goes near the top for those who cannot walk it. Start early to avoid heat and enjoy clear morning views of Manaslu.

Which mountains can you see from Gorkha?

From Gorkha Durbar on a clear day you can see Manaslu (8,163 m), Himalchuli, Baudha Himal and the Ganesh Himal range to the north, and on very clear days peaks of the Annapurna range to the west. October to February gives the best visibility. Spring haze often hides the peaks.

What is the best time to visit Gorkha?

October to March is best, with clear skies and cool days. Dashain, in late September or October, is the busiest and most atmospheric time, with pilgrims at the Kalika temple. April and May are warm and hazy. June to September is monsoon, with rain, cloud and occasional road closures.

Is Gorkha the start of the Manaslu trek?

Gorkha district contains the Manaslu region, and Gorkha bazaar was once a common starting point. Today most Manaslu Circuit treks begin by road at Soti Khola or Machha Khola, reached via Arughat, rather than from the town itself. Manaslu requires a restricted-area permit and a licensed guide; check current status before you travel.

Can I visit Gorkha and Bandipur in one trip?

Yes. Both lie on short side roads off the Prithvi Highway, about 2 hours apart by car. A good route is Kathmandu to Gorkha for a night, then Bandipur for a night, then on to Pokhara or Chitwan. It turns a long drive into a trip through Nepal's history and hill towns.

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