Manaslu Circuit trek over the Larkya La

Arrive in Kathmandu, permit briefing

We meet you at Tribhuvan International Airport and take you to Kathmandu Guest House in Thamel. Your restricted area permit is issued by the Department of Immigration only through a registered agency, so we need your passport and visa details, ideally sent ahead. In the late afternoon your guide comes to the hotel for a briefing: kit check, route, altitude plan and what to buy in Thamel if anything is missing. Dinner is free tonight; Thamel has every kind of food within a few lanes.

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Drive to Machha Khola

An early start by private jeep west along the Prithvi Highway, then north at Dhading Besi on a rough road to Arughat and up the Budhi Gandaki past Soti Khola to Machha Khola. The last hours are bumpy and dusty, and landslides can force a walk around a blocked section. Machha Khola, whose name means fish river, is a small bazaar of lodges at the trailhead. Dinner is dal bhat with river fish if you are lucky, and the river is loud all night.

Up the gorge to Jagat

The trail follows the Budhi Gandaki upstream, crossing side streams and climbing over spurs on stone steps. At Tatopani, natural hot water spouts beside the trail; a quick wash is welcome. You pass Dobhan and climb above the river to Jagat, a stone-paved village where the Manaslu Conservation Area checkpost inspects your permits. The people here are mostly Gurung and Hindu hill families. Expect heat and humidity in the gorge, even in November, so carry plenty of water.

Philim and on to Deng

Climb past Salleri and Sirdibas, where the first mani walls and prayer flags appear, to Philim, a large Gurung village with terraced fields of millet and maize. Beyond Ekle Bhatti the trail to the Tsum Valley branches off to the right; you stay on the main route. The gorge narrows and the path passes through bamboo forest above the river to Deng, a small cluster of lodges. From here upward the valley is Nubri, and the people speak a Tibetan dialect.

Into Nubri: Ghap and Namrung

Cross the Budhi Gandaki and climb past Rana and Bihi Phedi into forest of fir and rhododendron, where langur monkeys are common. At Ghap, carved mani stones line the trail and chortens mark the village entrance; walk to the left of them, as the locals do. The climb continues through forest to Namrung, a village with a permit checkpost and good lodges. On a clear afternoon the first big snow peaks appear above the forest to the north and east.

Lihi, Sho and Lho under Manaslu

Above Namrung the forest opens into farmland of barley and buckwheat around the villages of Lihi and Sho, with houses of stone and timber and long mani walls. Then you turn a corner and Manaslu fills the head of the valley. Lho sits below it, with Ribung Gompa on the hill above the village. Walk up to the gompa in the afternoon for the view and to see the monks; sunset and sunrise on Manaslu from here are the finest of the trek.

Short climb to Samagaon

A gentle day through forest and meadow past Shyala, a small village with a wide view of Manaslu, Himal Chuli and Peak 29, to Samagaon. Sama, as people call it, is the largest village in Nubri, a working settlement of stone houses, yak pens, barley and potato fields at the foot of the Manaslu glacier. Walk the village lanes, visit the gompa above the houses and drink plenty of water. Above 3,000 m, keep the gain small and the pace slow.

The story of Samagaon →

Acclimatisation day at Samagaon

Climb high and sleep low. Choose between Pungyen Gompa, a half-day walk to a monastery under the east face of Manaslu, or a longer, steeper climb toward Manaslu Base Camp, turning around at a sensible height. Pungyen was destroyed by an avalanche in the 1950s, which villagers blamed on Japanese climbers attempting the mountain, before the Japanese first ascent of 1956. Back in Sama, rest, eat well and walk to Birendra Tal, the glacial lake just below the village.

The story of Samagaon →

Up the valley to Samdo

Follow the Budhi Gandaki, now a small stream, up a wide valley of juniper, mani walls and yak pastures to Samdo, the highest permanent village on the route, near the old trade routes into Tibet. Families here keep yaks and still have strong links across the border. The short walk is deliberate. Spend the afternoon resting, watching the yaks come home and noticing how much harder a staircase feels at this height. Keep drinking water and keep evenings quiet.

Acclimatisation day at Samdo

A second rest day before the pass. Walk up the ridge behind Samdo to around 4,300–4,400 m for views of Samdo Peak and the glaciers, or follow the valley a little way toward the trail that once carried salt and wool between Nubri and Tibet. Your guide checks your oxygen levels and how you are sleeping. This day is the single best defence against altitude sickness on the circuit, and we do not drop it to save time.

To Dharamsala at the foot of the pass

Cross the stream below Samdo and climb steadily past the remains of Larkya Bazaar, an old seasonal trading post, to Dharamsala, also called Larkya Phedi. This is a cold, basic stop: a stone lodge with dormitory or tent accommodation and a busy dining room. Eat early, prepare your kit for the morning and go to bed by 7 pm. If anyone in the group shows serious altitude symptoms here, they go down to Samdo, not over the pass.

Over the Larkya La to Bhimthang

Leave around 4 am by headtorch, climbing moraine and false summits to the Larkya La at 5,106 m, marked by prayer flags. The view takes in Himlung Himal, Cheo Himal, Kang Guru and Annapurna II. The descent is long, steep and often icy at the top, so microspikes are useful in late season. Below, the trail eases along moraine into the valley of Bhimthang, a meadow with lodges and a view back to Manaslu's north side. This is the toughest and best day of the trek.

The story of Bhimthang →

Down through forest to Tilije

Cross the Dudh Khola and descend through rhododendron and pine past Karche to Gho, then on through farmland to Tilije, a Gurung village with stone lanes, terraced fields and orchards. After the pass, the thicker air and the warmth feel like a reward. You will notice fields of maize and buckwheat and the first proper bathrooms in days. Tonight is a good chance to thank your porter and guide over a long dinner.

Dharapani and jeep to Besisahar

A short walk brings you to Dharapani on the Marsyangdi, where the Manaslu trail joins the Annapurna Circuit and the ACAP checkpost stamps your permit. From here a shared or private jeep follows the rough road down the Marsyangdi valley through Tal, Chamje and Syange to Besisahar, the headquarters of Lamjung district. The road is narrow and the drops are long, but drivers here do it daily. A hot shower and a proper bed in Besisahar close the trek.

Drive back to Kathmandu

A private car takes you down to Dumre on the Prithvi Highway and east along the Trishuli river to Kathmandu, with a lunch stop at one of the riverside restaurants. Traffic near Kathmandu can be slow, so we leave after breakfast. Back at Kathmandu Guest House, you have the evening for a shower, a walk through Thamel and a celebration dinner. If you would rather go to Pokhara instead, the drive from Besisahar is shorter, at around four hours.

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Trip ends in Kathmandu

The trek ends after breakfast. We transfer you to Tribhuvan International Airport, allowing three hours before an international flight. If you have extra days, the Kathmandu valley's heritage cities of Patan and Bhaktapur, a few nights in Chitwan or a slow week in Pokhara pair well with a hard trek. We can also arrange a massage in Thamel for tired legs. Your restricted area permit is kept by the agency as a record; ask if you would like a copy.

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