Getting to Eastern Nepal: Flights, Roads, Borders

Eastern Nepal runs from the hot plains of Jhapa, Morang and Sunsari, where the main towns and airports are, north across range after range of green hills to the high Himalaya on the borders with Sikkim and Tibet. Two roads climb from the plains into the hills: the Mechi Highway from Charali in Jhapa north through Ilam and Panchthar to Taplejung, and the Koshi Highway from Dharan north through Dhankuta and Hile to the Arun valley at Tumlingtar and Khandbari.

Almost every trip in the east starts with a short flight from Kathmandu to one of three airports on or near those roads, followed by a drive. Choosing the right airport saves you a day. This guide explains which to use for which trip, how long the roads take, and what to do when, as often happens, the weather has other plans.

Distances look small on a map and feel large on the ground. Ilam and Taplejung are only about 55 km apart as the crow flies, but the road between them takes most of a day. Plan your trip around roads and airports rather than kilometres, and the east becomes easy.

Domestic fares for foreign visitors are priced in US dollars and are higher than local fares. Baggage allowances on domestic flights are usually around 15–20 kg including hand luggage, so pack light and leave extra bags at your Kathmandu hotel. Schedules change by season; check current status before you travel.

Bhadrapur's small airport sits among the rice fields of Jhapa near the Mechi river and the Indian border. Several airlines fly here from Kathmandu, mostly in the morning and early afternoon. From the airport, roads lead through Birtamod or Charali to the foot of the Mechi Highway, which climbs about 74 km to Ilam bazaar, passing the tea gardens of Kanyam and the market town of Fikkal.

Beyond Ilam, the Mechi Highway continues north through Phidim in Panchthar to Phungling, the bazaar of Taplejung district, a long day of seven to eight hours on winding roads. For the Kanchenjunga trek, jeeps then continue up the Tamor valley toward Sekathum. We always break the journey with a night in Ilam, which turns a punishing transfer into two pleasant days.

Biratnagar is Nepal's main industrial city in the east and has the most flights, which makes it the best fallback when other airports are closed. From here it is about an hour to Itahari and Dharan, the gateway to the hills, and a further climb of about half an hour up hairpins to Bhedetar on the ridge.

The Koshi Highway continues from Bhedetar down to Mulghat on the Tamor river and up to Dhankuta and Hile, then north to the Arun at Leguwa and on to Tumlingtar and Khandbari. It is a good paved road for most of its length, and driving it end to end in either direction is one of the best ways to see the eastern hills. Koshi Tappu Wildlife Reserve lies west of Biratnagar, about 1.5–2 hours by car.

Tumlingtar's airstrip sits on a broad river terrace above the Arun at about 410 m. It serves Khandbari, Chainpur and the Makalu Base Camp trek, which starts with a four-to-five-hour jeep ride to Num. Flights are short but often delayed by cloud or wind, especially in the afternoon, so we book morning flights and keep a spare day.

Taplejung Airport at Suketar sits on a ridge above Phungling and would be the perfect gateway for Kanchenjunga and Pathibhara. Its services have been irregular for years, sometimes from Biratnagar and sometimes from Kathmandu, and are often suspended. We never build an itinerary around it, but we use it when flights are running and the weather is good. Check current status before you travel.

If you prefer to travel overland, or flights are full, buses and private cars link Kathmandu with the east. The fastest route uses the BP Highway via Dhulikhel and Sindhuli to reach the East–West Highway at Bardibas, then runs east across the plains. Overnight buses reach Dharan and Biratnagar in about 10–12 hours and Ilam in about 14–16 hours. A private car is more comfortable but still takes a long day, and we suggest breaking the trip with a night on the way.

Roads in the hills are prone to landslides in the monsoon, from June to September, and some sections close for hours or days. Winter fog on the plains slows traffic in December and January. Drive in daylight with an experienced driver, and check current status before you travel.

Public transport in the eastern hills means local buses, micro-vans and shared jeeps. They are cheap and run on every main road, and riding one is a good way to meet people, but they are slow, crowded and stop often, and luggage goes on the roof. For most visitors, and for every trip we plan, a private car or jeep with an experienced local driver is the right choice. It lets you stop for tea gardens, viewpoints and photographs, and it turns a long road day into a comfortable one.

On the paved highways a normal car is fine. For Sandakpur, the upper Tamor valley toward Sekathum, the road to Num on the Makalu route and the tracks to Yamphudin, you need a 4WD jeep, and on some sections the driver will ask you to walk while he takes the empty jeep through a bad patch. Expect to cover about 25–35 km an hour on mountain roads, less after rain. Your driver will stop every two hours or so for tea; use these stops to stretch, because the bends are relentless.

A useful rule of thumb when planning: one flight and one road section per day is comfortable, two road sections is tiring, and anything more is a day lost to the windscreen.

The main crossing for travellers from India is Kakarbhitta, on the Mechi river, opposite Panitanki in West Bengal. It is about an hour from Bagdogra airport and Siliguri, and the usual way in from Darjeeling and Sikkim. Foreign nationals can get a Nepal visa on arrival at Kakarbhitta. There is also a crossing at Rani near Biratnagar, opposite Jogbani. Rules for third-country nationals at land borders change, so check current status before you travel.

• Keep at least one spare day at the end of any trip in the east for weather delays.
• Book morning flights in spring and autumn, and afternoon flights in December and January, when fog often lifts late.
• Carry cash: ATMs are found in Bhadrapur, Birtamod, Biratnagar, Dharan, Ilam, Dhankuta and Khandbari, but not in villages.
• Carry copies of your passport and visa; hotels must register foreign guests.
• A local SIM card works in most towns and along the main highways, but not in high valleys.