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Eastern Nepal · viewpoint

Bhedetar

भेडेटार

Bhedetar is a small ridge settlement at about 1,420 m on the road from Dharan to Dhankuta, on the border of Sunsari and Dhankuta districts. It is the first cool ridge above the plains, with views south over the Terai and, on clear days, the Sapta Koshi river. Families from Dharan and Biratnagar come up for sunsets and grilled meat.

  • Stay 0–1 nights
  • Best Oct – Feb
  • पहाडPahad
Bhedetar
Photo: Mithunkunwar9 · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Bhedetar

Altitude1,420 m16.0% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltPahadपहाड · The middle hills: terraces, towns, rhododendron
Each breath84%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils95.2 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu-0.1 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 1,420 m; real days vary with weather.

Leave Dharan and the road climbs hard, in tight bends through forest, gaining more than a thousand metres in about 16 km. At the top is Bhedetar, a ridge settlement of hotels, tea shops and homes strung along the highway, with the air suddenly cool and the whole Terai laid out below. After the heat and traffic of the plains, the change is immediate: you can feel it on your skin when you step out of the car.

On a clear day, especially after rain or in winter, you look across the flat plains of Sunsari and Morang, the grid of fields and towns, and the wide sandbanks of the Sapta Koshi. To the north, the hills of Dhankuta fold away toward the high mountains. At night the lights of Dharan, Itahari and the plains spread out below, a sight that brings families up from the towns on summer evenings.

Bhedetar is a short stop for most people on the way to Dhankuta and Hile, or an evening out from Dharan. We like it for a first night in the hills when you arrive from Biratnagar: it is close, cool and quiet once the day visitors leave. Combine it with Dharan's hilltop temples on the way up and the Tamor river at Mulghat on the way down the other side.

Why go

The Terai from above

From the ridge the plains of Sunsari and Morang spread south to the horizon, with fields, towns and the sandbanks of the Sapta Koshi. Clearest after rain and in the winter months.

Sunset and city lights

Evenings bring families up from Dharan to watch the sun set over the plains. After dark, the lights of Dharan, Itahari and the Terai towns spread out below the ridge in a wide, glittering grid.

Sekuwa on the ridge

Roadside restaurants grill skewers of pork, chicken and goat over charcoal. Eat at a table facing the view with beaten rice, pickle and a cold drink, as families from Dharan do every weekend.

First cool air of the hills

At about 1,420 m, Bhedetar is several degrees cooler than Dharan. In April and May, when the plains swelter in the high 30s °C, the ridge is a relief, especially in the evening.

Gateway to Dhankuta and Hile

Bhedetar is the first stop on the Koshi Highway into the hills. From here the road drops to the Tamor river at Mulghat and climbs again to Dhankuta, Hile and the road north to Tumlingtar.

१The story of Bhedetar

Sheep's terrace, then a highway town

The name Bhedetar is usually translated as sheep's terrace, from the Nepali bhedo, sheep, and tar, a flat shelf of land. Before the road, the ridge lay on the footpath between the plains and the eastern hills, with only a scattering of farms. Porters carrying loads between Dharan and Dhankuta climbed the same steep slope the highway now winds up, and the ridge top was a natural place to rest after the long climb out of the heat.

The main settlement grew after the road from Dharan to Dhankuta was completed in 1982. Shops and tea stalls opened to serve buses and trucks, and later hotels and restaurants for visitors coming up from the plains. A high-power transmitter of Nepal Television on the ridge carries signals across the region, and its tower is a landmark from below. Over the years the ridge has filled with houses, viewpoints and small resorts along the road.

Today Bhedetar is a weekend escape for people from Dharan, Itahari and Biratnagar, known for its views, sunset and sekuwa, grilled skewers of meat. On weekdays it is quiet, and the families who live here go back to their farms, shops and jobs in Dharan. For many people in the eastern Terai, a drive up to Bhedetar is the simplest way to feel the hills, and for many travellers it is the first taste of the Koshi hills beyond.

३The people

Who lives here

Bhedetar's residents include Limbu and Rai families, whose Kirat homeland covers these hills, along with Brahmin, Chhetri, Magar, Tamang and Newar households. Many run hotels, restaurants and shops along the highway; others farm or commute to work in Dharan. Dharan below has long been a Kirat cultural centre and a home of retired Gurkha soldiers. Nepali is the common language.

४Words you will hear
Nepali
भेडो
bhedo

Sheep, the first part of the name Bhedetar

Nepali
सेकुवा
sekuwa

Meat skewers marinated in spices and grilled over charcoal

Nepali
उकालो
ukalo

Uphill climb, as on the road up from Dharan

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Sekuwa

Chunks of pork, chicken or goat marinated with garlic, ginger, chilli and spices, threaded on skewers and grilled over charcoal. Bhedetar's roadside restaurants serve it with beaten rice and pickle, especially at weekends. Dharan below is known across Nepal for its sekuwa.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Bhedetar's main settlement began when the Dharan–Dhankuta highway was completed in 1982; before that it was a farming ridge on the porters' trail.

Wikipedia: Bhedetar

Nepal Television operates a high-power transmitter station at Bhedetar that broadcasts its channels to the surrounding region, which is why a tall mast stands out on the ridge when seen from Dharan below.

Wikipedia: Bhedetar

Bhedetar lies at about 1,420 m on the border between Sunsari and Dhankuta districts, more than a thousand metres above Dharan just below.

Wikipedia: Bhedetar

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Bhedetar

Road

Bhedetar is about 16 km and 30–45 minutes uphill from Dharan on the Koshi Highway, and roughly 1.5–2 hours from Biratnagar. Buses and jeeps to Dhankuta pass through. The road is steep and winding; avoid driving it at night if you can.

Air

The nearest airport is Biratnagar, about 40 minutes by air from Kathmandu, with frequent flights. From there drive via Itahari and Dharan.

Where to stay

Bhedetar has a few hotels and resorts along the ridge, aimed mostly at weekend visitors from Dharan and Biratnagar, plus simple lodges and restaurants. Rooms with a view south over the plains are worth asking for. Weekends are busy and weekdays quiet. For the widest choice, stay in Dharan and drive up for sunset, or continue to Dhankuta or Hile for the night, both within about two hours.

Local tips

  • Come on a weekday or late in the evening for a quieter visit; Saturdays and holidays bring crowds from Dharan.
  • The clearest views are from October to March, especially after rain; in spring haze often hides the plains.
  • Bring a light jacket for the evening; the ridge is breezy and cooler than Dharan.
  • If you get carsick, take something before the climb from Dharan; the road has many tight bends.
  • Combine Bhedetar with Dharan's temples and food on the same day.

On the map

Bhedetar and what is near it

Map of Bhedetar, Dhankuta, Hile, TumlingtarIndiaChinaBangladeshNepalKoshiBhedetar1BhedetarDhankuta2DhankutaHile3HileTumlingtar4Tumlingtar50 kmN
  1. 1Bhedetar
  2. 2Dhankuta
  3. 3Hile
  4. 4Tumlingtar
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Bhedetar: what travellers ask

Where is Bhedetar?

Bhedetar is a ridge settlement at about 1,420 m on the Koshi Highway between Dharan and Dhankuta, on the border of Sunsari and Dhankuta districts in Koshi Province, eastern Nepal. It is the first ridge above the plains on the road north.

How far is Bhedetar from Dharan?

About 16 km, or 30–45 minutes by car up a steep, winding road from Dharan. Buses and jeeps to Dhankuta pass through, and taxis from Dharan run up for the evening. Avoid the road after dark if you can.

How do I get to Bhedetar from Kathmandu?

Fly to Biratnagar (about 40 minutes), then drive about 1.5–2 hours via Itahari and Dharan. Overnight buses from Kathmandu reach Dharan in roughly 10–12 hours, and it is a short drive up from there. Check current status before you travel.

What does Bhedetar mean?

Bhedetar combines bhedo, sheep, and tar, a flat shelf of land in Nepali, and is usually translated as sheep's terrace. The second part, tar, appears in many eastern place names, such as Tumlingtar on the Arun river.

When is the best time to visit Bhedetar?

October to March for clear views over the plains, especially after rain. April and May are hazier but the ridge is a cool escape from the hot plains. June to September brings cloud, rain and occasional road blocks.

Is Bhedetar worth visiting?

Yes, as a short stop or an evening out. It offers wide views over the Terai, sunsets and good sekuwa, and is the gateway to the hills of Dhankuta and Hile. It is not a destination for several days.

Are there hotels at Bhedetar?

Yes, a few hotels and resorts along the ridge, aimed mostly at weekend visitors, plus simple lodges and restaurants. For more choice, stay in Dharan and drive up for the evening, or continue to Dhankuta or Hile.

Can you see mountains from Bhedetar?

Bhedetar's main view is south over the plains. To the north you look over the hills of Dhankuta. On rare, very clear winter days distant snow peaks may show, but for big mountain views go further north to Hile or Sandakpur.

Is the road to Bhedetar safe?

It is a well-used paved highway, but steep and winding, with trucks and buses. Drive in daylight with an experienced driver, and take travel-sickness tablets if you need them. In the monsoon, landslides can close sections briefly. Check current status before you travel.

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