Spiritual · Nagarkot
Walk down to Sankhu and Bajrayogini
Walk north-west from Nagarkot down through forest and villages to Sankhu, an old Newar town on the trade route to Tibet, and climb to the hilltop temple of Bajrayogini. A quieter alternative to the classic routes, with a rich Newar town at the end.
From the Nagarkot ridge, a path drops north-west through pine forest and Tamang settlements towards the valley floor. The descent takes about 2 to 3 hours on paths and tracks, with views across the north-eastern corner of the valley to the hills of Shivapuri.
We reach Sankhu, a Newar town that was once a stage on the trade route to Tibet. Its old core has brick houses, squares and temples, and many buildings rebuilt after 2015. Above the town, a stone stairway climbs through forest to the temple of Bajrayogini, a powerful tantric goddess revered by both Hindus and Buddhists.
At the temple complex, we see the pagoda shrines and the forest setting, and talk about the goddess and the town's festivals. If you visit during the month of Magh, you may see the Swasthani fast observed by women at the Salinadi river below. A car meets us in Sankhu for the drive back to Kathmandu.
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Questions
Where is Sankhu?
Sankhu is an old Newar town at the north-eastern edge of the Kathmandu Valley, about 20 km from central Kathmandu and below the Nagarkot ridge. It was a stage on the trade route to Tibet. It is known for the hilltop Bajrayogini temple and its old town.
Who is Bajrayogini?
Bajrayogini, or Vajrayogini, is a tantric goddess worshipped by both Newar Buddhists and Hindus. Her temple above Sankhu sits in forest on a hillside, reached by a stone stairway. Rules on entering inner shrines vary, so follow your guide's advice and any signs.
How long is the walk from Nagarkot to Sankhu?
About 2 to 3 hours downhill on forest paths and village tracks, plus an hour for the climb to Bajrayogini temple and back. The route is not well signed, so a guide is useful. Arrange a car to meet you in Sankhu for the return.
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