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Kathmandu Valley · viewpoint

Nagarkot

नगरकोट

Nagarkot is a ridge-top village on the north-east rim of the Kathmandu Valley at about 2,175 m, 32 km from the city. On clear mornings the Himalaya stretches across the northern horizon, from Langtang towards Everest. Stay one night for sunset and sunrise, then walk down through villages to Changunarayan or Bhaktapur.

  • Stay 1 nights
  • Best Oct – Feb
  • पहाडPahad
Nagarkot
Photo: 松岡明芳 · CC BY-SA 4.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Nagarkot

Altitude2,175 m24.6% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltPahadपहाड · The middle hills: terraces, towns, rhododendron
Each breath77%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils92.6 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu-5.0 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 2,175 m; real days vary with weather.

Nagarkot is where Kathmandu people go to breathe. An hour and a half's drive from the city through Bhaktapur, the road climbs through pine forest and terraced hillsides to a long ridge, cooler and quieter than the valley floor. Hotels and lodges are scattered along it, each facing north, because everyone comes here for one thing: the view of the Himalaya at dawn.

On a clear morning between October and February, the mountains appear at first light in a long white line: Ganesh Himal and Langtang to the north-west, Dorje Lakpa and the Jugal range due north, Gaurishankar and the Rolwaling peaks to the north-east, and on very clear days a small point near Everest far to the east. Below, the valleys fill with mist that burns off as the sun climbs.

Beyond the view, Nagarkot is a good base for walking. Trails lead along the ridge and down to Changunarayan, Bhaktapur, Sankhu and Dhulikhel through Tamang and Brahmin-Chhetri villages and forest. It is a gentle way to stretch your legs before a trek, or to spend a slow day after the city.

Why go

Sunrise over the Himalaya

From your hotel terrace or the view tower, watch the peaks turn pink and gold at first light. From October to February the chance of clear views is best. Be outside by 6 am, with a warm jacket.

The view tower

At the top of the ridge, a short walk or drive from most hotels, a viewing tower gives a wide panorama of the range and the valleys below. Arrive before sunrise for the best light.

Pine forest walks

Trails run along the ridge and into pine forest, with the scent of resin and sunlight through the trees. Easy, quiet walking of an hour or two, with views opening at clearings.

Down to Changunarayan

A classic half-day hike leads west via Telkot down to the Licchavi temple of Changunarayan, and on to Bhaktapur. Mostly downhill, through villages and fields.

Sunset from the ridge

On clear evenings, the light turns the peaks and the valley gold. Find a terrace with a view, order a hot drink and watch the colour fade from the snow before dinner.

१The story of Nagarkot

A rim village that became the valley's viewpoint

For most of its history, Nagarkot was a farming area on the edge of the valley, its ridge covered in forest and scattered with small settlements of Tamang and Brahmin-Chhetri families. Its position above the old trade route through Sankhu, the valley's north-eastern gate towards Tibet, gave it strategic value, and the name itself is often read as the fort of the city.

Its modern story began with the view. As tourism grew from the 1970s, travellers and Kathmandu residents came up to see sunrise over the Himalaya. In the 1990s the first resort hotels opened, among them Club Himalaya, set on what is now called Windy Hill. Lodges, guesthouses and restaurants followed along the ridge, and Nagarkot became a standard stop for first-time visitors to Nepal.

The 2015 earthquake damaged many houses in the villages around Nagarkot. Rebuilding has gone on since, and the ridge has also seen new hotels and roads. Away from the main road, though, the farmland, forest and village paths remain much as they were, and the morning view is unchanged, still the reason people make the climb.

३The people

Who lives here

The villages on Nagarkot's slopes are home mainly to Tamang families, a Tibeto-Burman people with their own language and Buddhist traditions, and to Brahmin and Chhetri farmers. Many families farm terraces of maize, millet, potatoes and vegetables, sold in Bhaktapur's markets. Others work in Nagarkot's hotels, restaurants and shops, or as drivers and guides. Newar communities live in the towns below, such as Sankhu and Bhaktapur.

४Words you will hear
Nepali
हिमाल
Himal

Snow mountain or range of snow peaks

Nepali
भञ्ज्याङ
Bhanjyang

Pass or saddle on a ridge, often with a tea shop

Nepali
डाँडा
Danda

Hill or ridge

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Dhido

A thick porridge of millet, buckwheat or maize flour stirred into boiling water until smooth and heavy, eaten by hand with lentil soup, greens, pickle and sometimes chicken curry. It is everyday food in hill villages. Ask your lodge or a village home near Nagarkot to make it.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

Dorje Lakpa, at 6,966 m, is one of the most recognisable peaks from Nagarkot: a broad, snowy mountain due north in the Jugal range, easy to pick out at sunrise because of its distinctive shape.

Wikipedia: Dorje Lakpa

Sankhu, a Newar town at the foot of the Nagarkot ridge, was a stage on the old trade route from the valley to Tibet. On a forested hill above it stands the temple of Bajrayogini, an important tantric goddess.

Wikipedia: Sankhu

Nagarkot sits on the north-eastern rim of the Kathmandu Valley but lies within Bhaktapur district, so many of its supplies, schools and markets are tied to Bhaktapur town, about 20 km below.

Wikipedia: Nagarkot

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Nagarkot

Road

Nagarkot is about 32 km east of central Kathmandu. By car or taxi, the drive via Bhaktapur takes about 1.5 hours, with the last 20 km climbing through hairpin bends. Local buses run from Bhaktapur to Nagarkot, taking about an hour. Most travellers use a private car with driver.

On foot

Walk up from Bhaktapur via Changunarayan and Telkot, or from Sankhu, in about 5 to 6 hours of steady climbing. Most visitors walk down rather than up, after a night on the ridge.

Where to stay

Hotels spread along the Nagarkot ridge, mostly facing north to the mountains. Club Himalaya, on Windy Hill, was the first resort here, with balcony rooms and an indoor pool. Smaller lodges and guesthouses sit near the view tower and along the road, with simple to mid-range rooms. Choose a room with a north-facing view, and check that heating is available from November to February, when nights drop close to freezing.

Local tips

  • Book a north-facing room; the mountain view from bed is half the point of coming.
  • Bring a warm jacket, hat and gloves; sunrise temperatures are close to freezing from November to February.
  • Check the weather forecast; if the valley is in cloud, sunrise views may be lost.
  • Plan Nagarkot for the end of a trip if you are unsure of weather, so you can move it.
  • Walk down to Changunarayan or Bhaktapur the next day rather than driving straight back.

On the map

Nagarkot and what is near it

Map of Nagarkot, Bhaktapur, Changunarayan, DhulikhelIndiaChinaNepalNagarkot1NagarkotBhaktapur2BhaktapurChangunarayan3ChangunarayanDhulikhel4Dhulikhel50 kmN
  1. 1Nagarkot
  2. 2Bhaktapur
  3. 3Changunarayan
  4. 4Dhulikhel
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Nagarkot: what travellers ask

Is Nagarkot worth visiting?

Yes, if the weather is clear. A night at Nagarkot gives you a Himalayan sunrise without trekking, plus easy walks through forest and villages. If mountain views are your main goal and skies are cloudy, consider moving the night or choosing Dhulikhel, which can be clearer on some days.

How far is Nagarkot from Kathmandu?

About 32 km east of central Kathmandu, a 1.5 hour drive via Bhaktapur, longer in traffic. Local buses from Bhaktapur take about an hour. Most travellers use a private car, often visiting Bhaktapur on the way up or down.

How many nights should I spend in Nagarkot?

One night is usually enough: arrive in the afternoon for sunset, see sunrise, walk in the morning and leave after lunch. Two nights gives a second chance at a clear sunrise and time for a long hike. It pairs well with a night in Bhaktapur.

Is Nagarkot cold?

Yes, compared with Kathmandu. At around 2,175 m, nights from November to February drop close to or below freezing, and mornings are cold. Days are pleasant in sunshine. Bring a warm jacket, hat and gloves, and check your room has heating in winter.

Can I do a day trip to Nagarkot?

You can, but you will miss sunrise, the main reason to go. Midday views are often hazy. A day trip combined with Bhaktapur or Changunarayan works if you cannot stay overnight. For the mountains, stay the night. Sunset is the best substitute for sunrise.

Which mountains can you see from Nagarkot?

On clear days, Ganesh Himal and Langtang to the north-west, Dorje Lakpa and the Jugal range due north, Gaurishankar and the Rolwaling peaks to the north-east, and distant peaks towards Everest on very clear mornings. Your hotel staff or guide can point them out.

Is Nagarkot good for a honeymoon?

Yes. Quiet hotels with mountain-facing rooms, sunrise and sunset views, forest walks and cool air make it a good romantic break near Kathmandu. Choose a room with a balcony and heating, and pair it with a night at Dhulikhel or Bhaktapur.

What else is there to do in Nagarkot?

Beyond the view, Nagarkot offers forest and village walks, longer hikes down to Changunarayan, Bhaktapur, Sankhu or Dhulikhel, mountain biking on ridge tracks, and quiet afternoons on a hotel terrace. There is little nightlife; most hotels have their own restaurants.

When should I avoid Nagarkot?

June to August, the monsoon months, usually bring cloud, rain and few mountain views, though the forest is green. Late March to May can be hazy with occasional storms. If views matter, aim for October to February. Monsoon rates, though, are lower.

Plan with a local planner

Tell us your height, we will find the trail

Easy hills or a 5,000 m pass, a week or a month: three short questions and a planner sends a first plan, with the sleeping height of every night and an itemised price.

  1. १Tell us where, when and how high you want to go
  2. २Get a first plan and an itemised price within one working day
  3. ३Change anything until it fits. Pay a deposit only when you book
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