Asoj 2083 BSअसोज २०८३· Nepal runs on its own calendar

Pokhara & the Annapurnas · village

Ghandruk

घान्द्रुक

Ghandruk is a large Gurung village of stone houses and slate roofs at about 2,012 m, 32 km northwest of Pokhara above the Modi Khola. It faces Annapurna South, Hiunchuli and Machhapuchhre, was where the Annapurna Conservation Area Project began in 1986, and is reachable by jeep or a short trek.

  • Stay 1–2 nights
  • Best Mar – Apr · Oct – Nov
  • पहाडPahad
Ghandruk
Photo: Bijaya2043 · CC BY-SA 3.0, Wikimedia Commons

The air at Ghandruk

Altitude2,012 m22.7% of the way to 8,849 m
BeltPahadपहाड · The middle hills: terraces, towns, rhododendron
Each breath78%of the oxygen at sea level
Water boils93.2 °Cso dal takes longer here
vs Kathmandu-4.0 °Ctypical difference by height

Oxygen, boiling point and temperature are worked out from the standard atmosphere for 2,012 m; real days vary with weather.

Ghandruk climbs a steep hillside in tiers: stone-flagged lanes, houses of grey stone with slate or tin roofs, terraces of millet and potatoes, and prayer flags and bamboo above. Across the Modi Khola gorge, Annapurna South and Hiunchuli stand so close and high that they seem to lean over the village, with Machhapuchhre's fishtail to the right. Morning light on those peaks is the reason most people come.

It is also one of the largest and most established Gurung villages in Nepal, with over 5,000 people in its wider area. Many families have served in the Gurkhas for generations, and the village has a small Gurung Cultural Museum, the Meshram Baraha temple, and mothers' groups that organise cultural evenings and keep the lanes clean. The upper village keeps an older feel than the lodge strip.

Ghandruk works as a two-night trip from Pokhara, a stop on the Poon Hill loop, or a night on the way to Annapurna Base Camp. Since a jeep road reached the area you can drive most of the way, but walking up from Kimche, Syauli Bazaar or Landruk is still the better arrival.

Why go

Dawn on Annapurna South

From the upper village, Annapurna South and Hiunchuli turn pink and gold above the Modi Khola gorge, with Machhapuchhre to the right. Walk up the lanes for the best view, before the lodges' breakfast rush.

Gurung Cultural Museum

A small family-run museum in a traditional house shows Gurung tools, dress, baskets, musical instruments and household objects, with explanations of daily life before the road came.

The stone lanes

Walk the old upper village's flagstone paths between houses with carved windows, grain drying in courtyards and water taps where neighbours meet. Evenings are the best time.

Mothers' group evenings

Ghandruk's aama samuha sometimes hold cultural evenings with Gurung songs and dances to raise funds for the village. Ask your lodge if one is planned during your stay.

Rhododendron to Tadapani

The trail up to Tadapani at about 2,630 m climbs through dense rhododendron and oak forest, red with flowers in March and April. Part of the Poon Hill loop.

१The story of Ghandruk

Where Nepal tried a new kind of conservation

For generations Ghandruk was a Gurung farming village, growing millet, maize and potatoes on terraces, grazing sheep and cattle on high pastures, and sending its young men into the British and Indian Gurkha regiments. Army pensions paid for stone houses and helped fund schools, and retired soldiers became leaders on village committees.

By the early 1980s trekking was booming, and so was the cutting of forest for lodge fires. In 1986 the King Mahendra Trust for Nature Conservation, now the National Trust for Nature Conservation, launched the Annapurna Conservation Area Project with Ghandruk as its pilot. The idea was new for Nepal: no fences or soldiers, but village committees managing forests, lodge standards and permit income themselves.

With the project's help, villages built small micro-hydro plants, kerosene and later gas replaced firewood in many lodges, and community forests recovered. The Annapurna Conservation Area grew to 7,629 km2, Nepal's largest protected area. Since 2015 Ghandruk has been part of Annapurna Rural Municipality, and a road now reaches it. The village is busier, with new concrete lodges among the stone, but the upper lanes and the mountains are unchanged.

२The legend
As it is told · घान्द्रुक

Gurung tradition long held the Annapurna Sanctuary, up the Modi Khola from Ghandruk, as a sacred place, home to deities from Hindu, Buddhist and older beliefs, and a store of treasure left by the naga serpent gods. Machhapuchhre at its gate was said to be the home of Shiva, and the plume of snow blowing from its summit the smoke of his incense. Until recently villagers forbade carrying eggs or meat into the sanctuary.

३The people

Who lives here

Ghandruk is overwhelmingly Gurung (Tamu), with some Dalit families who have long worked as smiths and tailors. Households farm, run lodges, raise livestock and depend heavily on remittances and Gurkha pensions; many families now also live in Pokhara or abroad. Religious life mixes Buddhist lamas, Gurung Pachyu and Ghyabri priests and Hindu shrines such as Meshram Baraha. Mothers' groups play a strong role in village life.

४Words you will hear
Nepali
आमा समूह
Aama samuha

Mothers' group; village women's committee that runs events and cleanups

Gurung
रोधी
Rodhi

Traditional gathering of young Gurung people to sing, work and socialise

Gurung
ल्होसार
Lhosar

New year; Tamu Lhosar falls on 15 Poush, about 30 December

Every word on this site

५What to eat

Millet dhido with gundruk and local chicken

Thick finger-millet dhido eaten by hand with sour gundruk soup, a hot pickle and a curry of free-range village chicken. Ask your lodge or homestay in Ghandruk a day ahead; it is a family meal rather than a menu item. Millet raksi, the local spirit, may appear at festivals.

६Few people know

Things most guides leave out

The Annapurna Conservation Area Project began in 1986 with Ghandruk as its pilot village, managed by what is now the National Trust for Nature Conservation, and pioneered community-run conservation in Nepal.

National Trust for Nature Conservation (NTNC): Annapurna Conservation Area Project

Ghandruk was its own village development committee until 2015, when it became part of Annapurna Rural Municipality; at the 2021 census its area had 5,316 people in 1,228 households.

Wikipedia: Ghandruk

Annapurna South (7,219 m), which dominates Ghandruk's view, was first climbed in 1964, and Hiunchuli beside it is in fact an extension of the same massif.

Wikipedia: Annapurna South

Untold Nepal, region by region

Getting there

How to reach Ghandruk

Road

From Pokhara, drive the Baglung road to Nayapul, about 42 km, then take the rough road up the Modi Khola to Kimche or into Ghandruk itself. Private jeeps take about 3 hours from Pokhara depending on road conditions. Local jeeps run from Nayapul. Roads are slow and sometimes blocked in the monsoon.

On foot

Walk from Kimche in about 1.5 hours, from Syauli Bazaar or Nayapul in 4–6 hours, from Landruk across the Modi Khola in 3–4 hours, or from Tadapani on the Poon Hill loop in 2–3 hours downhill. The steps above Kimche are steep but short.

Where to stay

Ghandruk has dozens of family lodges, from basic teahouses to comfortable guesthouses with attached bathrooms and heated dining rooms. The best for views are in the upper and middle village facing Annapurna South; ask for a north-facing room. Some homestays in the old village let you sleep in a traditional stone house. There are no international-brand hotels; for luxury, stay in Pokhara at The Pavilions Himalayas or Fish Tail Lodge before and after.

Local tips

  • Ghandruk is inside the Annapurna Conservation Area: carry your ACAP permit and TIMS card and walk with a licensed guide; check current status before you travel.
  • Stay in the upper village rather than near the road head for quieter nights and better views.
  • Ask before photographing people, especially elders in traditional dress.
  • Buy only bottled water you can refill, or use the safe drinking water stations where available, to reduce plastic.
  • Carry cash: card payment is rare and the nearest reliable ATMs are in Pokhara.

On the map

Ghandruk and what is near it

Map of Ghandruk, Ghorepani & Poon Hill, Annapurna Base Camp, Dhampus, PokharaIndiaChinaNepalGandakiGhandruk1GhandrukGhorepani & Poon Hill2Ghorepani & Poon HillAnnapurna Base Camp3Annapurna Base CampDhampus4DhampusPokhara5Pokhara50 kmN
  1. 1Ghandruk
  2. 2Ghorepani & Poon Hill
  3. 3Annapurna Base Camp
  4. 4Dhampus
  5. 5Pokhara
Drawn by Book Nepal Trip from Natural Earth outlines (public domain). International borders as depicted by Nepal. Rivers: Karnali, Gandaki and Koshi systems. Not for navigation.

Questions

Ghandruk: what travellers ask

How do I get to Ghandruk from Pokhara?

Drive the Baglung road to Nayapul, about 42 km, then continue on the rough road up the Modi Khola to Kimche or Ghandruk itself, about 3 hours in total by private jeep. From Kimche it is a 1.5-hour walk up. You can also walk from Nayapul in 4–6 hours. Local jeeps run from Nayapul. Roads are slow in the monsoon.

What is the altitude of Ghandruk?

Ghandruk sits at about 2,012 m, though the village spreads over a few hundred metres of hillside. It is too low for serious altitude sickness, but nights are cool to cold. Tadapani above it is about 2,630 m and Ghorepani 2,874 m. Below, Kimche is around 1,640 m and Nayapul about 1,070 m.

Do I need a permit for Ghandruk?

Yes. Ghandruk is inside the Annapurna Conservation Area, so you need an ACAP permit and a TIMS card, checked at posts such as Birethanti. Since April 2023 foreign trekkers must walk with a licensed guide. Permits are issued in Kathmandu and Pokhara. Rules have changed several times; check current status before you travel.

How many days do I need for Ghandruk?

Two nights from Pokhara is the easiest Ghandruk trip: drive and walk up, spend a full day in the village, and return. Three to four nights lets you add Tadapani and Ghorepani for the Poon Hill loop. Ghandruk is also a night stop on the way to Annapurna Base Camp via Chhomrong.

Is Ghandruk good for families?

Yes. With a jeep to Kimche the walk is short, the village has comfortable lodges, the museum and lanes interest children, and the mountain views are dramatic without high altitude. Children often love the mule trains and animals. Bring warm clothes and snacks. Keep children close on steep stone steps and near terrace edges.

Is Ghandruk better than Ghorepani?

They are different. Ghandruk is a large, lived-in Gurung village with culture, museum and close views of Annapurna South. Ghorepani is a lodge village at 2,874 m that exists mainly for Poon Hill's sunrise panorama with Dhaulagiri. Many treks visit both on the Poon Hill loop, three to four nights from Pokhara.

Can you drive to Ghandruk?

Yes, a jeep road now reaches Ghandruk from Nayapul via Kimche, so you can drive to the village or walk the last section from Kimche. The road is rough, narrow and often muddy, and in the monsoon it can be closed by landslides. Private jeeps are booked in Pokhara. Many visitors drive up and walk down.

What is ACAP and why did it start in Ghandruk?

The Annapurna Conservation Area Project, launched in 1986 by what is now the National Trust for Nature Conservation, chose Ghandruk as its pilot village because trekking was growing fast and forests were being cut for lodge fuel. The project let villagers manage forests and tourism through local committees, a model later used across Nepal's conservation areas.

What is the best time to visit Ghandruk?

October and November give the clearest views of Annapurna South. March and April bring rhododendron blossom on the trail to Tadapani, with more haze. December to February is cold but often clear and quiet. June to September is monsoon: cloud, rain, leeches and road closures make it the season to avoid.

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