Eastern Nepal · Feasts, markets and the lunar calendar
Food and festivals in Eastern Nepal
Newar samay baji and yomari, Thakali dal bhat, Sherpa shyakpa, Tharu ghonghi, Mithila sweets, Ilam's tea and tongba in the eastern hills. And the festivals that bring them out: Dashain, Tihar, Indra Jatra, Bisket, Tiji and Chhath.
Trips
Arun Valley and Chainpur Crafts
Seven nights from the Arun valley to the plains. Fly to Tumlingtar on its broad river terrace, spend two days with the …
Eastern Hills Overland: Ilam to the Arun
Nine nights across the eastern hills by private car, from the tea gardens of Kanyam and Ilam to the Arun valley at …
Ilam, Sandakpur and Kanyam
Five nights that climb from the tea gardens of Ilam to the Singalila ridge at Sandakpur, 3,636 m, where four of the …
Ilam Tea Country
Four slow nights in the tea hills of Ilam, Nepal's oldest tea district. A night at Kanyam among clipped green slopes, then …
Kirat Culture Trail: Bhedetar, Dhankuta, Hile
Four nights in the Kirat heartland of the eastern hills, where Rai and Limbu culture is part of daily life. Visit Budha …
Places
Bhedetar
The first ridge above the plains, with the Terai spread below
Chainpur
An old hill bazaar of brass jugs, bronze casters and khukuri smiths
Dhankuta
A tidy ridge town of oranges, tea and Athpahariya Rai villages
Hile
A misty ridge bazaar of tongba, tea and the road north
Ilam
Nepal's oldest tea hills, rolled green to the Indian border
Tumlingtar
A broad river terrace above the Arun, gateway to Makalu
Experiences
Sunset over the Terai from Bhedetar
An evening on the Bhedetar ridge to watch the sun go down over the plains of eastern Nepal, the Sapta …
Sekuwa evening on the ridge
Dinner at a roadside grill on the Bhedetar ridge: skewers of pork, chicken or goat marinated in spices and cooked …
Dantakali and Budhasubba temples below Bhedetar
A morning visit to two temples on the hills at the edge of Dharan, on the way up to Bhedetar: …
Down to the Tamor river at Mulghat
A drive from Bhedetar down the far side of the ridge to Mulghat, where the Koshi Highway crosses the Tamor …
Inside a Chainpur karuwa workshop
A morning with a metalworking family in Chainpur, watching how brass and bronze vessels, above all the karuwa water jug, …
Old bazaar walk on the Chainpur ridge
A slow walk through Chainpur's old trading bazaar with a local guide: shop-houses with wooden windows, small temples, workshops and …
Khukuri forging with a local smith
A visit to a blacksmith's forge near Chainpur to see how khukuri, the curved Nepali knife, are forged, shaped, hardened …
Newar food and yomari in Chainpur
A cooking session with a Newar family in Chainpur bazaar, making yomari dumplings and other Newar dishes, with stories of …